At the second
London Food Film Fiesta
a team of expert Japanese chefs led by Kyoichi Kai and
Miguel Choy demonstrated that there’s much more to this
esoteric cuisine than sushi and sashimi.
Nowhere has greater care and imagination been given to
the presentation of food than in Japan. The delicacy
and exquisiteness of Japanese table arrangements are
matched only by the fragile beauty of Japanese painting.
Traditionally the Japanese bride received as many as 50
different kinds of dishes as wedding gifts, and she
might use a dozen at one meal. She would devote the most
painstaking attention to the angle at which a sprig of
green vegetable was propped against a lump of crabmeat,
or the way a fish was garnished. Meals were served in
many small dishes, but the total amounts offered each
diner were large.
The
waters around Japan abound with fish and shellfish, and
Japanese seafood is regarded by many gourmets as the
finest in the world. Fish is eaten raw (sashimi),
broiled, fried in deep fat (tempura), or salted and
broiled (shioyaki). The popular tempura method of deep
frying food was learned from Portuguese traders who came
to Japan in the 16th century. Rice has been the
staple; it traditionally accompanied every meal; but in
the late 20th century wheat products such as bread have
become common, especially as an accompaniment to
Western-style food. Sushi, or vinegared rice, is
served in stylized portions with a variety of
accompaniments, including mushrooms, squid, fish,
shrimp, and caviar.
The
Japanese like clear soups, garnished with eggs,
vegetables, or seafood. The thicker “miso” soups are
flavoured with fermented soybean paste. Japanese
vegetables include bamboo shoots, snow peas, eggplant,
mushrooms, and potatoes. The popular sukiyaki
consists of beef and vegetables simmered in soy sauce.
Pork or chicken may be substituted for the beef. Saké, a
fermented beverage made from rice or other grain, is a
popular drink, and tea is taken with all meals and at
virtually all hours of the day.
The
Japanese tea ceremony, or chanoyu, is a highly
formalized ritual dating back to the 13th century. The
tea is meticulously prepared and is accompanied by a
variety of delicate seasonal dishes. Every aspect of the
ceremony—the setting, the flavours and textures of
foods, the colours and shapes of the containers, even
the conversation—is carefully calculated to achieve the
most harmonious and satisfying effect.
An
outgrowth of the tea ceremony is the kaiseki, the grande
cuisine of Japan; it is the highest form of Japanese
dining and perhaps comes as close to dining as an art
form as any in the entire world of gastronomy. The food
served in kaiseki is selected according to the changing
seasons and is presented through a series of small
dishes with an artful simplicity that brings out the
unique tastes of ordinary foods from nearby mountains
and sea. Perhaps the key to the composition of the
kaiseki meal lies in the word aishoh: “compatibility.”
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