As the worldâs countries become
more international – and homogenised – and as
computers propel its citizens into cyberspace, nations
grow more deeply resolved to cling fiercely to their
cultural identities.
Hardly
surprising, then, when famous old British brands such as
Marmite celebrate their centenary, odes should be written
and hats thrown into the air, with the same degree of joy
accompanying the birth of a first-born.
Most of
us born post-war fondly remember being regularly fed
Marmite soldiers for breakfast. Those not reared on this
tasty offering should know that Marmite soldiers are
pieces of toast or plain buttered bread cut into strips
and spread with a thin layer of Marmite. One of the
standard parent-approved games to play with Marmite
soldiers was to ‘dunkâ them into the yolk of a
soft-boiled egg.
Todayâs generation are probably much more likely
to indulge in the frivolous pastime of Marmite Beating,
like fan Peter Kingsland, who told John Peel hosting a BBC
Radio 4âs Home Truths programme that what you
have to do is place a small dollop of marmite on
the side of your breakfast plate and gently beat it with a
knife until it turns from brown to light brown and
eventually to white. ‘Oh yes it does,â he assured him,
in case he thought it was a hoax.
However, he warned that
‘this is an activity only to be undertaken as a student
or if you are detained at Her Majesty’s Pleasure for some
considerable time, as it literally takes hours to reach
the ultimate goal of turning your marmite white!â
Apparently, there is also a Marmite Beaters Club for
people who had achieved the requisite shade of white.
What is it about this
dark brown sludge that induces such love – or, it must
be said, loathing, because there are as many people who
hate the stuff, as adore it? Itâs certainly a marketing
coup for Unilever, which manages to sell 23.5 million
pots a year of what is merely spent yeast – used
by brewers
to ferment sugars into alcohol – and has also
spawned a variety of imitators worldwide, like Australia,
which has its own devotees of Vegemite and
Promite.
Firstly,
Marmite is good for you. The
discovery of vitamins in 1912 did much to boost its
popularity.
It has a high natural
B-vitamin content (prevents anaemia), as well as thiamin,
riboflavin (healthy skin and enzyme regulation), niacin
(both for energy) and folic acid (important during
pregnancy
to help prevent spina bifida in unborn infants) and
so can form
a reliable part of the everyday family diet. It is
also approved by the Vegetarian Society as being 100 per
cent vegetarian.
Secondly, it is versatile. As well as being enjoyed
as a tasty savoury spread on toast or bread, a teaspoon of
Marmite can be added to soups, casseroles, and almost any
savoury food to impart a rich flavour.
It also has excellent storage properties – large
jars will last years after opening without going off.
Not until Louis Pasteur’s time were the secrets
of living yeast unlocked. A German chemist named Liebig
discovered that the yeast waste left over from brewing
beer could be easily digested and made into a concentrate,
resulting in a protein-rich paste with a more or less
‘meatyâ flavour. So Marmite is actually a European,
not British, invention! But for once, the Brits were the
first to make it commercially viable.
The yeast extract used in British Marmite comes
from breweries in the Burton-on-Trent area. Burton has
been the home of Marmite since the patent was first
acquired in 1902 and the Marmite Food Extract Company
Limited was born. That same year Edward VII was crowned.
It is thought that Marmite is named after marmite, a French
stockpot or cooking pot, similar to the one pictured on
the front of the jar. In French, it is pronounced ‘mar-meetâ.
Alternatively, the product may have been named after a
famous French soup, Petite Marmite.
The
spread was sold in small earthenware pots from the outset,
but towards the end of the 1920s, plans were drawn up to
switch to glass jars with metal lids.
By the outbreak of the First World War, Marmite was
an established brand, recognised for its nutritious
properties as an essential food supplement. It was
therefore ideal for troops serving overseas to combat the
outbreak of beri-beri and other deficiency diseases. At
the outbreak of the Second World War, the Marmite
brand again went into battle, and on the home front
housewives were encouraged to spread it thinly and to ‘use
it sparingly just now’.
In
the 1950s, after 50 years of selling Marmite,
the company was justly able to claim that it was a product
handed down from generation to generation. The advertising
theme at this time focused on the benefits for children.
By now, Marmite
had reached cult status, aptly recognised by the outcry
when the jar lid was upgraded from metal to plastic in
1984. The company bowed to popular demand.