In
this charming remake of Ang Lee’s Eat Drink Man Woman,
Hispanic chef Martin (Hector Elizondo) opens the movie
making squash blossom soup (which daughter Carmen
criticizes for not including the seeds of the serrano
peppers.) And youngest daughter Maribel (Tamara
Mello) precipitates disaster when she tries to teach her
Brazilian boyfriend (Nikolai Kinski) soup manners. But
it’s the tortilla soup scene that is the heart of the
movie, when Martin begins to accept his daughters’ love
and free will. Daughter Letitia (Elizabeth Peña) brings
home for dinner the man she’s just eloped with:
Orlando
(Paul Rodriguez): "I love toppings. I’ve always
loved toppings. Sometimes I go to restaurants and I just
ask for toppings. You know, I say, the more toppings the
merrier. I, …that’s what I say.
Carmen (Jacqueline Obradors): "You like Tortilla
Soup?"
O: "Yes, yes, of course. Yes, my mother used to
make it for us all the time. [pause while he tastes] She
never made it like this. This is, is the best Tortilla
Soup I’ve ever had."
Tortilla
Soup retells the Ang Lee story fairly closely, retaining many of the scenes from
the original (though it does drop one story-line
completely, which improves the flow of the film a great
deal). In fact, most of the changes made to the movie
improve on the original, and while original films are
almost always more appealing than their descendants, I
preferred "Tortilla Soup" in almost every way
(the movie misses the pristine visual composition of the
original, but this is a small tradeoff, and more than
made up for by the handsome production design). It’s
often said that comedy is much more difficult to
translate than drama, but a movie as enjoyable as
"Tortilla Soup" doesn’t need to justify it’s
existence as a remake. The cast is filled with actors
that have proven their capability time and time again,
and they interact here with a low-key assurance that
radiates throughout the production and fills the screen
with warmth and festive good spirit.
Standing out from the rest of the excellent cast is
Hector Elizondo, whose portrayal of a man whose life
consists, in about equal measures, of running the
kitchen of a highly successful restaurant and the lives
of his three daughters. Mr. Elizondo projects calm,
complete authority in every scene he is in; even in the
cooking scenes, he moves through the kitchen, handles
the food, checks the army of bubbling pots with the
assurance of the master chef. Throughout his career, Mr.
Elizondo has combined his dignified appearance with a
precise comic timing that has led to many scene-stealing
supporting roles as a slow-burning straight man. Between
his perfectly manicured goatee and his gleaming bald
head, he has given his characters a look that
simultaneously penetrates his co-actors and twinkles
just enough to let the audiences members know that he is
not just in on the joke, but knows it better than the
stars themselves. In this movie, he is the star, and it
is wonderful to see him use that cultivated persona in
new and enriching ways. He finds perfect credibility as
a man who uses the strength of his will to make food
transform itself according to his wishes, and yet finds
himself baffled when the same approach fails with his
daughters.
The movie itself finds comic moments throughout based on
the confusion generated when men and women try to
interact with each other and the inability of one side
to understand how the other works. Fortunately, though,
they do (work, that is), and it’s a relief to see a
comedy that’s equally as perceptive of both men and
women, and while the plot of the film hinges on the
clashes between the members of the family, the
characters themselves remain wholly, delightfully
functional.