In ancient China, hunting and foraging supplied
much of the food. Wild game, such as deer, elk, boar, muntjac (a
small deer), wolf, quail, and pheasant, was eaten, along with beef,
mutton, and pork. Vegetables such as royal fern, smartweed, and the
leafy thistle (Sonchus) were picked off the land. Meats were
preserved by salt-curing, pounding with spices, or fermenting in
wine. To provide a contrast in flavours the meat was fried in the
fat of a different animal.
As Chinese agriculture developed, styles of food were
determined to a great degree by the natural resources available in
certain parts of the country, thus the vastly different manners of
cooking and the development of distinctive regional cuisines of
China. As a more varied fare began to emerge, tastes grew more
refined. By the time of Confucius (551-479 BC) gastronomes of
considerable sophistication had appeared on the scene. Confucius
wrote of one of these fastidious eaters:
For him
the rice could never be white enough. When it was not cooked
right, he would not eat. When the food was not in season, he would
not eat. When the meat was not cut correctly, he would not eat.
When the food was not served with the proper sauce, he would not
eat.
Emergence of a cuisine
Like all other forms
of haute cuisine, classic Chinese cooking is the product of an
affluent society. By the 2nd century AD the Chinese court had
achieved great splendour, and the complaint was heard that idle
noblemen were lounging about all day, feasting on smoked meats and
roasts.
By the 10th or 11th
century a distinctive cuisine had begun to emerge, one that was
developed with great attention to detail. It was to reach its zenith
in the Ch’ing dynasty (1644-1911/12). This cuisine was a unique
blend of simplicity and elegance. The object of cooking and the
preparation of food was to extract from each ingredient its unique
and most enjoyable quality.
As in the case of the
French cuisine, the hors d’oeuvre set the tone of the meal. “The
hors d’oeuvre must look neat,” say the Chinese gastronomic
authorities Tsuifeng Lin and her daughter Hsiang Ju
Lin:
They are best served in
matched dishes, each containing one item. Many people like to
garnish the dishes with parsley and vegetables cut in the shape of
birds, fish, bats, etc., or even to make baskets of flowers from
food. These are all acceptable if kept under control, and if the
rest of the meal is served in the same florid style. The worst
offence would be to start with a florid display of food and then
suddenly change style midway.
Common foods and traditions
The theory of
balancing fan (grains and rice) with ts’ai (vegetables and meat) is
one of the factors that distinguish Chinese gastronomy from that of
all other nations. This refined proportion of harmony and symmetry
of ingredients was practiced whenever possible in households
throughout the ages and is not limited to formal or high cuisine or
to meals served on special occasions.
In addition to taste
that pleases (a most elemental requirement in China), astrological,
geographical, and personal characteristics had to satisfy the
complex system of the yin-yang balance of hot and cold, based on
Taoist perception of the cosmic equilibrium. According to this
theory, every foodstuff possesses an inherent humour; thus,
consuming foods and beverages at proper and complementary
temperatures can adjust the possible deviation of the normal state
of the two intertwining forces.
Certain foods and
culinary traditions are prevalent throughout most of the country. Rice is the staple except in the north, where
wheat flour takes its place. Fish is extremely important in all
regions. Pork, chicken, and duck are widely consumed, as well as
large quantities of such vegetables as mushrooms, bamboo shoots,
water chestnuts, and bean sprouts. The Chinese season their dishes
with monosodium glutamate and soybean sauce, which takes the place
of salt. Another distinctive feature of Chinese cooking is the
varied and highly imaginative use of fat, which is prepared in many
different ways and achieves the quality of a true delicacy in the
hands of a talented Chinese cook. The Chinese take tea with their
meals, whether green or fermented. Jasmine tea is served with
flowers and leaves in small-handled cups.
The great Chinese schools
Traditionally, China
is divided into five gastronomic regions, three of which are
characterized by the great schools of Chinese cooking, Peking,
Szechwan, and Chekiang-Kiangsu. The other two regions, Fukien and
Kwangtung, are of lesser importance from a gastronomic point of
view.
Peking is the land of
fried bean curd and water chestnuts. Among foods traditionally sold
by street vendors are steamed bread and watermelon seeds. Vendors
also dispensed buns called paotse that were stuffed with pork and
pork fat, and chiaotse, or crescents, cylindrical rolls filled with
garlic, cabbage, pork, scallions, and monosodium glutamate. Wheat
cakes wrapped around a filling of scallions and garlic, and noodles
with minced pork sauce are also traditional Peking specialties. But
the greatest of all delicacies of this region is of course the
Peking duck. This elaborate, world-renowned dish requires lengthy
preparation and is served in three separate courses. In its
preparation, the skin is first puffed out from the duck by
introducing air between the skin and the flesh. The duck is then
hung out to dry for at least 24 hours, preferably in a stiff, cold
breeze. This pulls the skin away from the meat. Then the duck is
roasted until the skin is crisp and brown. The skin is removed,
painted with Hoisin sauce (a sweet, spicy sauce made of soybeans),
and served inside the folds of a bun as the first course. The duck
meat is carved from the bones and carefully cut into slivers.
Sautéed onions, ginger, and peppers are added to the duck meat and
cooked with bean sprouts or bamboo slivers. This forms the second
course. The third course is a soup. The duck bones are crushed and
then water, ginger, and onion are added to make a broth. The mixture
is boiled, then drained, and the residue is cooked with cabbage and
sugar until the cabbage is tender.
The cooking of
Szechwan in central China is distinguished by the use of hot
peppers, which are indigenous to the region. The peppers lend an
immediate sensation of fiery hotness to the food, but, once this
initial reaction passes, a mingled flavour of sweet, sour, salty,
fragrant, and bitter asserts itself. Fried pork slices, for example,
are cooked with onions, ginger, red pepper, and soy sauce to achieve
this aromatic hotness.
The provinces of
Chekiang and Kiangsu feature a broad variety of fish—shad, mullet,
perch, and prawns. Minced chicken and bean-curd slivers are also
specialties of these provinces. Foods are often arranged in pretty
floral patterns before serving.
Fukien, which lies
farther south, features shredded fish, shredded pork, and popia, or
thin bean-curd crepes filled with pork, scallions, bamboo shoots,
prawns, and snow peas.
To Americans perhaps,
the most familiar form of Chinese cooking is that of Kwangtung, for
Canton lies within this coastal province. Mushrooms, sparrows, wild
ducks, snails, snakes, eels, oysters, frogs, turtles, and winkles
are among the many exotic ingredients of the province. More familiar
to Westerners are such Cantonese specialties as egg roll, egg foo
yung, and roast pork. |
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From Album of the
Yongzheng Emperor in Costumes, by anonymous court artists, Yongzheng
period (1723—35). One of 14 album leaves, colour on silk. The Palace Museum,
Beijing. |
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Spring’s Peaceful Message, c. 1736, by Giuseppe
Castiglione (Chinese name Lang Shining, 1688—1766). Hanging scroll, ink and
colour on silk. The Palace Museum, Beijing. |
Eating and Drinking in China
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general store |
Chinese ivory importers
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